Lontong pieces (rice cooked in a banana leaf until the individual grains become indistinguishable and it can be cut with a knife, as served with chicken satay in Solo), topped with yellow noodles, beansprouts and green leafy veg, served in a meat stock with black bean paste and chili sauce.

I tried this Surabayan dish at the Pasar Atom foodcourt. Up on the top floor of this “old style” mall, a huge variety of foods is available, including many local specialities, and it’s a good spot for people-watching.